Recommendations for visiting the Friendly Island….

While there’s likely no BAD choices when it comes to food on the island…sometimes it’s helpful to have some good places to start from. Sint Maarten/St. Martin is a small island in the Caribbean that’s split into two sides by nationality…Dutch and French. The food is amazing on both sides, although people who prefer the French side of the Island have a very superior view of it (they can’t help it, they’re FRENCH!). When you take into consideration the availability of super fresh fish daily, you know you’re in for some GOOOOOOOOD EATS!

We stay at the Atrium Hotel on Simpson Bay, which is on the Dutch side; so I’ll be making recommendations MOSTLY in that area. Also, since Hurricane Irma ravaged my poor Island, the French side has not made as good of a recovery as the Dutch side has…it’s a tale of two islands almost when you compare the rebuilding and renovations. Many restaurants, hotels, businesses on the French side still remain closed, some have simply been wiped off the face of the island altogether 😦 That’s not to discourage visiting, to be sure, just to give some perspective.

The Greenhouse Restaurant – Simpson Bay

This is our “go-to” in that it’s directly off the Atrium pool, so location is truly everything! An informal bar with seating as well as a dining room, this serves for our daytime drink provider, midday snack, and some dinners spot. The Greenhouse does two-for-one drinks ALL DAY from 11am-7pm….that’s a real game changer! I can drink the frozen cocktails alllll day, and my favorites are the Miami Vice (half strawberry daquiri, half pina colada), frozen cappuccino with Bailey’s, and the mudslides. But when the time comes to stop giving myself brain freeze trying to suck down two frozen drinks at once, they are also fully stocked with bottled beers (Bud, Bud light, Corona, Carib, and of course Heineken among others) and they make superb mixed drinks as well. Our favorites include the rum punch, Moscow mules, and Mojitos.

In addition to amazing drinks, Greenhouse serves up some super tasty food, and has AMAZING nightly dinner specials! The “bang bang” shrimp has long since been a favorite midday snack, although this year we tried the “bang bang” calamari and found it equally delicious. Tossed in sweet thai chili sauce (hello I’m obsessed with this sauce!) the breaded shrimp or fried calamari is taken to a new level of flavor…and it’s the perfect appetizer or poolside snack. For a locally sourced island specialty, check out the Conch Fritters…they’re served with two dipping sauces, tartar and chili and taste best when you use BOTH! I also really like the Crab Salad wrap for a fresh and light lunch.

And with the restaurant being along side the pool and just off Kim Sha beach, it’s the perfect spot to spend your cocktail hour, to run in from the beach and grab cheap drinks, to catch the most beautiful sunset views, or to take shelter during the fleeting but powerful sun showers! They even have a pool table if you need additional entertainment.

Hands down, the best thing about the Greenhouse, is their Monday/Thursday night special: Prime Rib! These nights are BUSY BUSY BUSY in the restaurant, and YES definitely you’ll want to make a reservation….but not just for your dining time, you can also reserve your cut of meat! And you’ll want to, as they have run out! They offer “Queen” and “King” sized cuts which are large or larger and each prime rib dinner is served with au jus and horseradish sauce, and comes with two sides. I always get their plantains because they are so tasty!

When you visit, be sure to say hi to the WONDERFUL staff, especially Milena, Wilmer, Kyle, and Damian.

Sint Maarten Yacht Club – Simpson Bay

Just across the street and down the road from us is the Sint Maarten Yacht Club where the yearly Heineken Regatta is run from, and where they serve up some of the best breakfast on the island…and as they say “probably the best bloody mary on the island”! I’m inclined to agree, especially when there’s an option to add shrimp to your bloody; it’s the best way to kickstart your day.

My go to breakfast is the Eggs Norwegian, essentially Benedict with lox instead of Canadian bacon, but they add capers to the hollendaise sauce and they serve it up alongside fried potatoes that have just a dash of spice to them! Their fresh fruit bowl is a lovely variety of melons, berries, kiwi, pineapple and it’s always perfectly ripe! I always add bacon, because DUH, and that’s cooked to perfection, never greasy and limp.

Pro Tip: you should time your visit to coordinate with the bridge openings so that in addition to this tasty tasty food, you can watch the HUGE yachts coming in or going out for the day! It’s so fun to watch these giant vessels come and go; some barely fitting through the drawbridge…also, if you’ve ever watch Bravo’s hit show Below Deck, you might see a familiar ship (wink wink) while you eat!

Pineapple Pete’s – Simpson Bay

Another across the road and down the street option is Pineapple Pete’s which we first came across several years ago rather by accident. After trying to spend the day shopping in Phillipsburg, it started pouring on the drive there; Pineapple Pete’s was right where we were when the rain started and it seemed like the perfect place to wait it out….a few hours later we were several rounds of drinks and appetizers deep at one the of their bars and had become quite enamored of the French Canadian transplant/owner the “head pineapple” Pierre. Now we make it a regular stop everytime we visit the island, and we are always thrilled with not only the variety of food, but the quality and great service.

They’re famous for their Lobster Thermidor, which is essentially a “twice baked” lobster…my husband always has to order it. As you can see, portions are kind of gigantic, so this could definitely be a place where appetizers are left by the wayside. But since they also have an excellent escargot, my husband’s first love, and I am particular to their Crab Stuffed Shrimp which comes in a white wine sauce, we can’t possibly think of not ordering apps as well as entrees.

Their menu is extensive, in fact it goes on for several pages so there is no way anyone could say that they couldn’t find something they like. They even have poutine in an homage to Head Pineapple’s roots in Canada! I always lean towards seafood when we are on the island, so in addition to the shrimp app, I recommend the fish fritters, seafood linguine (both the red and white sauces are to die for!) and grilled salmon.

Pineapple Pete’s has regular live music at night, and several bars in addition to the general dining area. They have a pool hall room, an arcade, and a new room with games and “rides” for kids; so our first assumption of this wonderful location was correct….when it rains, get indoors to Pineapple Pete’s! Oh and don’t forget to ask about Pierre!

Jimbo’s Rock and Blues Cafe- Simpson Bay

If you haven’t noticed yet, Simpson Bay is KIND OF the place to be….you don’t have to go far to find live music, entertainment, casino’s or food. To me, that’s a major win!

***UPDATE**Jimbo’s will be closing at the end of MARCH 2020 (possibly relocating as they are losing their lease!)** Jimbo’s is a place that to me seems like you wouldn’t find unless you knew where it was; situated in a shopping center just up from Pineapple Pete’s and literally in the middle of a copse of palm trees is this fabulous joint…can’t really say restaurant because with no real walls closing it in, it feels more like a “joint”. The highlight is the lazy river and fountain the the middle…and yes people do go swimming in it (as evidenced by the stools on the backside of the bar just URGING you to swim up), but sadly I have yet to witness such a sight. For me, it’s the call of their Red sangria by the pitcher that keeps me coming back…nothing says relaxed vacation like sipping sangria next to a palm tree. They have tables that can accommodate large groups (8-10) so this is a plus as other restaurants in the area would be struggling to do so. Another place with a large menu to peruse, although it’s mostly varying styles of tex mex food.

This is one time when I don’t lean to seafood, and fully embrace my “Taco Tuesday” regardless of what day of the week it is. Favorites here really span the entire menu…if you’re going with a large group though the “Tasty Taster” is a really big helping of most of the appetizer menu so unlike some places that offer 3-4 things in a sampler, this truly allows you to sample and get your fair share!

They do Friday night movies on their big screen in the bar area…and its FREE! And they serve popcorn during the move; also FREE! You’ll definitely want to stop by.

Vesna Taverna – Simpson Bay

Vesna Taverna was recommended to us by so many people that we finally had to stop in to try it out. Doing double duty as a daily French/American restaurant, they turn into a full blown authentic Greek Taverna on Saturday nights! We were able to stop in for breakfast one morning and were quite impressed by the place.

Theirs was a fairly elaborate menu for breakfast considering most neighboring places offer eggs and omelets and call it a day..most of their lunch menu is also available to order in the morning so it made it seem even larger I guess. My husband never says no when steak and eggs are offered, and this was no exception. I opted for the Bagel Tower which has a bagel cut in three, then stuffed with cream cheese, lox, tomato, lettuce, capers and pickles (yes, the pickles threw me off at first too, but their briney flavor goes perfectly with the salt from the lox!!)

This is definitely a place I would like to return to for dinner…especially on a Saturday night as Greek food is one of my favorites!

Zee Best Restaurant – Simpson Bay

If pastries are not your thing, please stop reading and don’t tune in to anything else I write, as you’ll only be wasting your time. Fresh, French croissants, apple turnovers, fruit and cheese danishes are some of the most basic joys in life, and I cannot imagine anyone going without. In the same shopping center as Jimbo’s, you’ll find a small, and easy to overlook corner shop called Zee Best and it sure does live up to it’s name! With limited seating, and a very exaggerated air of “island time”, this is one of the best spots for breakfast when you’re in Simpson Bay…if you can get a table. If not, they do take out for their pastries and that may be enough.

For those lucky enough to get a table, a basket of pastries is set out with your menu’s. Unlike other restaurants that set out pathetic “french bread” and room temp butter, you will be charged for each item you eat from the basket, but at $1.75-$3 a piece, it seems a small price to pay. Breakfast options here run the gamut from basic eggs to omelets to quiches, crepes, and french toasts…they also have a rather delightful cafe coffee menu which was much needed! Have I mentioned that I’m an eggs benedict lover? It’s actually a bit of an obsession…so I had the Eggs Florentine which is essentially Benedict with spinach taking the place of the Canadian bacon…love me some hollendaise!!! Also because i have massive indecision at breakfast when I’m forced to choose between sweet and savory, I had a lemon and sugar crepe. It was so good, like someone poured fresh lemonade on the lightest, airiest pancake! Also sampled at our table was the Frigon omelette which features a trio of cheeses (swiss, mozz, and goat) along with tomatoes and pesto.

Fun fact: we stopped here on the way to the airport before returning home to pick up some pastries because I just couldn’t get enough…you’re not supposed to bring such perishable foods into the US but I take my baked goods very seriously.

Sheer Restaurant – Phillipsburg

This is a restaurant that I would have never even known EXISTED, let alone made it to visit if not for a group of SXM Food lovers on Facebook; #Foodporn of SXM. This group encourages visitors and residents alike to post pictures of the fabulous food they have, and give great exposure to restaurants that wouldn’t otherwise be known to all. They also do monthly group dinners where a pre-set number of RSVP’ers can attend to try something new and delicious. I was so happy that there was a group dinner happening while we were on the island, and even more excited to find that we’d be trying something COMPLETELY new!!

Tucked into a small side street between Front St. and Back St. in Phillipsburg , this is a very cute restaurant! They have an outdoor seating area with fountain views, but we were ushered into their rotunda-esque bar for cocktails before dinner. A little nerve-wracking going to dinner with 25 or so people you don’t know (aside from their hella tasty looking food posts online!) but everyone was very outgoing and welcoming, and we easily settled into conversations about our various experiences.

Although we were provided with a special, scaled down menu, the offerings on Sheer’s regular menu all seem to sound better than the next!

Our appetizers knocked it out of the park…the presentation, the flavors, everything was so great! Around the room, silence descended as everyone dug in…you know it’s a good sign when a chatty room goes dead quiet aside from the sounds of chewing and forks to plates!! And now for the main courses….

OMG!!! At this point the room was once again silent except for people exclaiming about how good their dinners were and then asking the people to their left or right. And man was it filling; you’d never expect the smaller portions to fill you up so fast, but they really do, and we still had dessert coming!

After dessert, the Chef sent out a selection of homemade shortbread cookie along with two type of truffles, chocolate coconut and chocolate orange. Much though I wanted to taste EVERYTHING, at this point I was uncomfortably full, and couldn’t even think of tasting another bite! All in all, this was a wonderful experience and I’m glad that we took a leap of faith so to speak to try something we never would have found if not for the magic of Facebook!

Karibuni – Pinel Island

Pinel Island is a small, uninhabited island only a short, $12 round trip ferry ride from SXM, and it’s populated by iguanas, sugar birds, and the staff of two beachfront restaurants; Karibuni and Yellow Beach. When Hurricane Irma blew through, the small beachside huts and most of the trees on the island were taken with it, but they’ve been fiercely rebuilding, and I’m quite pleased to report that both “beaches” are re-opened to ALMOST their same grandeur…with slightly less shade.

The beach area is smaller, but the water remains crystal clear and calm. The shaded hillside where the iguana’s hang out waiting for someone to feed them their leftover salads is no longer shaded, but they still hold court there. We contacted the beach ahead of time via Instagram (since their phone didn’t seem to be in service) and reserved waterfront chairs and umbrella ($30), and also reserved out seats for the Noon seating of lunch (it’s either 12:00 or 2:00). While reservations are NOT needed, I like to be prepared, and also not have to run off the ferry to get a “good spot”. We ordered drinks to our chairs all morning and spent time in the water, and exploring on the island…wear shoes if you’re planning to explore, it’s rocky. By the time lunchtime rolled around, I was ready to go eat. The rebuilt restaurant at Karibuni looks fairly similar, there’s just a much longer boardwalk, and again, significantly less beach.

There is no electricity on Pinel. There is nothing that isn’t brought over each day by the restaurants, so no worries about food being fresh! In fact, you can pick your lobsters directly out of the ocean…now that’s fresh! Tucked up under the sunshades, we were able to have our lunch right on the water, without the glaring heat of the sun, and thankfully the breeze was strong throughout the day. Fish fritters and fresh octopus salad were our starters…and they were so good, especially the Octopus…in fact I almost ordered a second helping!!

Our main courses were very Lobstery…this time we opted not for the full size, choose your own caribbean rock lobsters, but rather their smaller cousins, Crawfish lobsters! I had mine over a salad with melon, avocado, pineapple, orange, and grapefruit in a lemon au poivre dressing. My husband got his just grilled and served plainly so that he could fully enjoy their sweet flavor…along with a good amount of melted butter. Washed down with a bottle of rose, it was the perfect beachside lunch!

And yes, we did the perfectly natural thing where we stuffed all our leftover fruit and veggies into a plastic cup to share with the Iguana’s…it’s expected, and it seems they enjoy a good lemon au poivre dressing!

Sunset Beach Bar – Maho

What used to be a tiny bar on the beach in front of the airport has morphed into cruise ship passenger central, with a sprawling location that now houses a pool, a pizza bar, a cigar shop, and an extensive gift shop on top of two bars and a huge seating area. If you want to watch planes land and take off…this is the place. If you want to visit without being crammed into a pen with 1,000 tourists fresh off a boat, go for breakfast! This was the first time we’d visit the island and not go to Sunset at prime-time for drinks and planes, but we’d heard the breakfast was good, and it was certainly nice to be there without it being so crowded!

Just look at all the people who are not there!! That’s the real vacation if you ask me! Breakfast was delicious; fresh squeezed orange juice mimosas and french toast with bacon all while watching some of the smaller private planes land and being lulled almost back to sleep by the sounds of the waves crashing up into the shoreline.

Daleo’s Snack – Mullet Bay Beach

Right at the entrance of Mullet Bay Beach is Daleo’s Snack, just a few picnic tables under some sunshades and a grill, but don’t let it’s humble appearance fool you! This is home to (in my opinion) the best ribs on the island!! While you’re busy swimming, relaxing, and baking yourself on the beach, this snack bar is jamming and putting out fresh BBQ that’s the perfect combination of great food and great price. In addition to ribs, they also have BBQ chicken, hamburgers, hot dogs and french fries as well as a full drink menu that includes beers, sodas, cocktails and frozen blended drinks. So after sitting on the beach for the day ($15 for two chairs and an umbrella), keep it simple and head up to Daleo’s on your way out and grab a quick bite!

One quick note about Mullet Bay Beach….there are NO facilities there. So no shower, no sinks, no bathrooms. Keep that in mind as you plan your day.

Bikini Beach – Orient Beach

Bikini Beach is one of 3 beach restaurants to re-emerge after Irma on beautiful Orient Beach. The mostly empty sand is in stark contrast from our last visit, where every inch of shoreline was packed with chairs and umbrellas and different restaurants vying for business. Now, comfortably in between the rebuilt Kontiki and the new KKO, Bikini is a green umbrella oasis, with plenty of seating, bathrooms, showers, a full restaurant and bar, and little nooks and alcoves in which to spend the day at the beach.

2 chairs and umbrella were $25 and since we were “late” (at 10am) and hadn’t reserved in advance, we were a bit further back from the water….but that just meant we were closer to the bar!! Drinks here are STRONG!! I ordered a mixed drink that I swear was just a cup of Rum!! Similarly, my strawberry daiquiri was also very heavy on the Rum…so after that I switched to water. After swimming and then napping under our lovely shade, we decided to try out the restaurant. We headed up and were seated right away, with a spectacular view of the entire beachfront. We decided to keep it simple, cheeseburger for him, mahi sandwich for me…then, one of the appetizers caught my eye; “Stuffed Mussles”. We ordered 6.

The mussels that came out were unbelievable. Breaded and garlicked to perfection, they came with a warm lemon butter sauce for dipping. I was so sad we had only ordered 6 when we’d had the option for 12…I jokingly told our server we wanted 6 more for dessert (which prompted a bit of confusion on her part) and I wasn’t’ really joking; they were that good….definitely the best thing I ate the whole trip!

So as you can imagine, you could very well eat your way all around the island, and probably get quite fat in the process…but you wouldn’t be able to stay mad, it’s all too tasty for that! In closing, I’ve rounded up some other noteworthy destinations…there’s never enough time while on vacation to do and see everything, but it makes the desire to return to the Friendly Island that much stronger!

Simpson Bay…

• Snoopy’s Bar-great drinks, karaoke and the bonus of having an owner who is a very talented singer!
• Toppers – great food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and another karaoke location.
• Karakter – beachfront restaurant that has chairs (free when you purchase food/drinks) and live music at night
• Mary’s Boon – a hotel but also a beachfront restaurant that has chairs (free with purchase of food/drink)
• El Zafiro – another hotel/beach/restaurant and bar, this beauty has appeal of the ocean but also nearness to the airport’s runway…if you want to watch planes without being bombarded by hundreds of cruise shippers, this is where you want to spend the day….they also offer yoga and dance classes!
• Buccaneer Beach Bar – also located on Kim Sha beach by the Atrium hotel, they have live music, chairs on the beach, host local jewelry vendors, and even light up a bonfire on the beach on Sundays and Fridays
• Lee’s – Recently reopened in a new location, this excellent BBQ spot is back and better than ever! Parking may be tight, so if you can park elsewhere and walk to it, best idea!
• Lambada & Tango Catamaran Sunset Cruise – scheduling varies but while we were there, these were being offered on Monday and Thursday nights, leaving at 5:00pm from the Simpson Bay Resort Marina. Cruise includes beer, wine, soda and rum punches along with chips and veggies. We book through our “activites” desk in the hotel and paid $25 per person (which was WAY less than their posted price on their website, so be sure to check with your hotel to see if you can get a better deal!) Newbies can expect to be called upon to raise the sail, and don’t worry about wearing “boat appropriate” shoes as everyone has to remove them to board. Usually the round trip is about an hour and a half dock to dock. This is an activity we schedule every visit as the sight of the sun setting in St. Maarten never gets old, and also, $25 for all you can drink?? DEAL!

Beyond…

• Loterie Farm – Located on Pic Paradis , this is the perfect poolside tropical oasis in the middle of nowhere! Here you’ll see wildlife (monkeys, iguanas, pigs and more), get the chance to zip-line through the rainforest, hike through beautiful wooded paths, or if you’re more like me, just laze by the pool in your own private cabana while drinks are brought to you regularly. For €20 per person, you can enjoy the pool area on a daybed…I suggest you upgrade to a cabana ( €190 for the regular and allows up to 10 people, or the VIP cabana is €290 which allows up to 10 persons, the choice of white or rosé wine as well as the private use of the deck in front of the cabana, adjacent to the pool which also has 4 daybeds). They have a DJ suspended in a treehouse, a full bar and kitchen, a gift shop, and this can really be an entire day WELL SPENT! On the last Saturday of each month, they throw and day into night party that is always well attended; try to fit it in if you schedule aligns!
• Blue Bitch Bar – Located on the Boardwalk in Phillipsburg, Taloula Mango’s/Blue B-tch Bar is a very laid back, casual restaurant that’s perfectly situated to allow for a midday break when spending time in the Capitol city. You have a stunning view of the beach and water, and in addition to the brick and mortar structure, they now offer a beach bar with daybeds and umbrellas. great food and drink….just be prepared to be PATIENT!! This place is often very busy, and all the workers appear to adhere to “island time”. Worth it it you can wait.
• Lay Back Bar & Grill – Also located on the boardwalk in Phillipsburg, this is right at the beginning (or end depending where you start) where the palm tree fountain is. Another great midday stop, for good food at an even better price….ask for Sheldon (wonderful man!) and tell him Kate and Jacob sent you 😉
• Boolchand’s Havaiana’s store – if you are like me, and absolutely OBSESSED with Havaiana sandals, then don’t overlook this little (and I do mean quite small) shop at The Boardwalk #4 Loodgieter Steeg. Great prices, HUGE selection, and I pick up at least 2 pairs each visit.
• Le Temps des Cerises – a wonderful boutique hotel located on the beach in Grand Case, they also have a full bar and restaurant. This is one of the few up and running hotels in Grand Case at the moment as the area was hit VERY hard during Irma. LTC is right on the water and all of the rooms have beachfront views, if not access. You can also choose to get chairs and umbrellas on their beach if you are just visiting for the day.
• The Grand Case Lolo’s – aka beach shacks that serve up FRESH BBQ and seafood daily! Not all of them survived the hurricane, but that ones that did are back open and ready to delight your tastebuds with ribs, chicken, and seafood. Bring cash as not all take credit cards.
• The Open Air Market in Marigot – home to at least 2 dozen booths selling the same “touristy” tchotchkes as the ones next to them, there are diamonds in the rough to be found here! Beautifully handpainted bottles of spices, sauces, marinades, and more Sandy’s Spices is a booth not to miss. You can also get hand painted glassware, salt and pepper shakers, and decorations, as well as original paintings by some fabulous local artists. Don’t be discouraged by the lesser booths, great deals can be found on hats, t-shirts, fridge magnets (you know, the really important things HAHA)

The best recommendations about places to go, people to see, and services to use while on the island (aside from my own!!) come from the regular visitors and “snowbirds” in the following Facebook groups…I HIGHLY recommend joining at least one before making travel plans.

• Jeff Berger’s “Everything SXM”
• SXM or Bust!
• SOB Rentals (if you’re looking for timeshare or rental properties)
• #Foodporn of SXM (if you want to torture yourself with food pics and reviews)

Have you visited SXM? Did one of your favorite’s not make my list?? PLEASE tell me about it in the comments; I’d love to go next year and see what I’ve missed!!